© Luka Lindic
There was lots of trail breaking in Pakistan and we needed to work quite hard to do what we did but I definitely came back with mostly good memories. We were a good team without any conflicts during the whole expedition. I was able to see how much I improved in the last few years, because I could compare my experience from the expedition to Makalu in 2011. This makes me very satisfied.
© Luka Lindic
I was training quite a lot before this expedition so I expected that climbing Broad Peak on the normal route shouldn’t be too hard. However it proved to be far from easy because of snow conditions between camp 3 and the col between main and middle summit. I also saw this as a final check before going to Gasherbrum 4.
Someone might think that it only makes you tired to climb an 8000m peak for acclimatization. I think that if this would have been an issue it would only mean we aren’t strong enough for the line we wanted to try on G4.
I already climbed before also with female climbers but not on expeditions. I don’t expect that it will be much different because Ines is a very good climber and already during the organization she impressed me how hard and effectively she was working to make the trip possible. Thank you! The biggest difference will be to finally share small tents and sleeping bag with a woman and not only men :-)
We were in touch for quite a while and we both love steep mixed climbing and the area where we are going offers exactly that.
© Ales Cesen
Mostly by having long days in the mountains walking or climbing. I found it very easy to stay motivated during this kind of training, because I really like to be in the mountains. We all know that the motivation is the most important at the end. I do a bit of biking but nothing to serious.
It’s hard to say. I don’t consider myself as being some crazy tough guy, but I definitely like to experience this kind of “fighting” for something from time to time.
© Ales Cesen
I am really happy that I have the chance to do this so often. If I would need to describe the feeling of being on an expedition it would be peace. The kind of peace it’s difficult to experience back home. It’s hard work many times for sure, but mostly you spend your energy to walk and climb, prepare food and liquid and place to spend the night. You forget about the rest. It’s also a lot about traveling and discovering different cultures.
© Luka Lindic
Many times I think of some crazy climbing ideas. I really like rock climbing too, so often on expeditions I think of where I will go to climb some warm rocks when I get home. I can’t deny that some-times you miss home or family but I never had big problems with that. I am usually able to switch to a different mindset when I go on expeditions.
The food definitely plays a big role. The longer the expedition the bigger role food plays. I take a lot of care when planning the expedition that there will be enough food and good variety of it. Usually I know already at home what I will eat on the climb, because I know what I like in situations like that. At the moment Bigos is the winner for me :) LYOFOOD has an excellent Bigos, they just need to make some extra mashed potatoes. I am definitely going more and more in the direction of normal food. With my homemade bars and elderberry juice, I have my perfect gourmet menu on high altitude.
© Luka Lindic
I will talk from a very personal perspective. I believe that no one has the right to judge what the “right future” of mountaineering is. Some people are motivated for speed ascents and some for more technical climbing. I think it’s great that we can do so many totally different things in our “sport”. I definitely see myself in steep technical faces of big mountains in the future.
© Ales Cesen
Thanks for the interview and have fun on your upcoming expedition!
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